Former Angler and Saison chef Joshua Skenes, one of the vital mercurial cooks within the nation, is opening a brand new Los Angeles restaurant in late April known as Leopardo. Situated within the former La Brea bakery constructing one block north of République, Leopardo takes its identify from the speckled crusts of Neapolitan pizza and can function wood-fired pizzas, dishes centered round its wood-fired grill and different rustic Italian dishes.
Skenes first arrived in Los Angeles in late 2019 to broaden his fashionable San Francisco Angler fish restaurant. It operated via the pandemic, however closed on the finish of 2022 earlier than reopening for a brief stint from February 2023 to June 2023. Skenes has since moved on from Saison Hospitality, which additionally owns the two-Michelin-star Saison and the one-star Angler Michelin in St. Francis. Angler has turn into a key participant within the eating scene of Los Angeles for its pristine seafood, a few of which was saved in tanks within the eating room, and meats cooked over a reside fireplace, though the its location on the base of the Beverly Middle might have influenced its lukewarm reception. with Angelenos. In 2021, Skenes introduced an invitation-only expertise known as Skenes Ranch in Washington state that has not but opened, though the chef nonetheless intends to take action.
Skenes has lived principally in Los Angeles in recent times to be near his household. The chef will now concentrate on Leopardo, which began as a pizzeria however has since added contemporary seafood and meat grilled over a wooden fireplace. Skenes says he received't overtly name the restaurant's method to meals Italian as a result of he doesn't know “the very first thing about conventional Italian cooking,” however as a substitute depends on a Californian mindset.
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25368151/WhatsApp_Image_2024_04_02_at_15.46.30__1_.jpeg)
Much like his method with Angler, Skenes will depend on utilizing high quality merchandise at their peak taste. Leopardo's aperitif part options some dishes that will be acquainted to Angler followers: An elk tartare comes with spring rolls and grilled yeast. An “enhanced” radicchio comes with XO sauce, whereas peel-and-eat shrimp arrive with cocktail sauce and garlic mayo. A polenta waffle comes slathered with barbecue corn cob butter. A pasta part options the TikTok-famous spaghettini all'assassina – a charred noodle dish with chocolate basil. Crackling lasagna comes with melted backyard greens and nation bacon. Entrees embrace roast wild boar and “parmesan” pheasant. The menu primarily feels like Bear Grylls and Marcella Hazan had a love youngster within the kitchen.
Skenes discovered the ever-popular medium of pizza as a muse for this stability, utilizing canned Early Lady tomatoes sourced from Northern California and pairing them with buffalo mozzarella on a wild yeast-fermented dough for a number of days with West Coast grains. Skenes says the puffy, candy crust is smooth on the facet however cracks “like an eggshell” on the surface for one thing that's not fairly Tokyo-style, but additionally with out the neo-cake flop – Neapolitan “I do know that's in all probability offensive to purists, however that's the way in which I prefer it,” says Skenes, who calls the pizza “Neo-Neo.”
Different pizzas embrace the Hey Devil, with chiles, salami, spicy tomato sauce and honey; the Blowhole with smoked nation ham and cooked pineapple (cue the pineapple haters); and a white piece with fermented potato, ricotta, garlic and 100 grams of Kaluga caviar.
The brick-clad La Brea Bakery constructing, which operated from 2013 to 2023, retains a lot of its authentic structure inside, with the addition of a giant outside patio, wood-fired ovens and a uncooked bar. Cocktails are a giant focus right here, too, like a mezcal infused with wild boar combined right into a bloody mary; rhubarb Negroni; or iced Chartreuse swizzle. It is going to be a enjoyable place to eat and drink, and maybe much less stuffy than Angler — a extra eat-with-your-hands place that is sensible in Los Angeles, albeit with the refinement that Skenes followers will respect.
Leopard opens at 460 S. La Brea Avenue, Los Angeles, CA, 90036, someday in late April. It is going to start accepting reservations on April 22. Comply with the restaurant Instagram for extra updates.
