Embers from a road grill spewed just a few puffs of smoke round 10 pm on a cold night in Tujunga, a neighborhood situated north of Glendale. Ruben Danielyan opens a brown bag containing mesquite charcoal, including just a few damaged items to the barbecue the place it instantly ignites. He spreads the coals evenly with a metallic rake earlier than threading chunks of marinated meat onto large metal skewers lined up like medieval swords. When a darkish SUV pulls up and a buyer barks out an order, Danielyan doesn't combat again and stoically locations khorovats—Armenian-style barbecue skewers—on the new grills, their fats dripping and scorching as they hit the coals, spitting out extra. heady aromas.

Danielyan's khorovats stand, Kara Bala, is situated in entrance of an auto restore store and operates every day from 5 a.m. to 2 a.m., a late-night road meals dream in an in any other case quiet suburb. The grill is about up on the sidewalk alongside Foothill Boulevard and lit by string lights as a beacon for hungry evening owls. The one close by competitors is an In-N-Out that clogs the intersection on Lowell Avenue.

Simply 18 months in the past, Danielyan was dwelling in Volnovakha, Ukraine, the place he and his spouse's households owned a number of eating places, cafes and lodges for greater than three a long time. Danielyan additionally beforehand owned two eating places known as Kara Bala (named after a well-known flower vendor in Armenia) within the Donbas area of Ukraine which was illegally annexed by Russia after a 2014 army operation. The title Kara Bala has been maintained for this exercise as Danielyan's spouse is named Kara and bala means “baby” in colloquial Armenian.

A man wearing a dark shirt prepares Armenian khorovats sandwiches.

Ruben Danielyan in his stand, Kara Bala, in Tujunga.

Danielyan opened Kara Bala in October 2022 when he and his spouse moved to Los Angeles, about six months after Russia invaded Ukraine in a battle that continues to ravage the area. “I made a decision to do what I knew finest — cook dinner khorovats,” Danielyan tells Eater via a translator. Khorovats stands are widespread in Volnovakha, which had a considerable Armenian inhabitants earlier than the battle.

There are solely 5 meat choices accessible at Kara Bala: lule (seasoned floor beef), rooster breast, lamb, cubed beef steak and pork. After being grilled on coal, the meat is pulled from its mirror and in lavash ready with clear piles of chopped parsley and chopped onions. Danielyan provides a spicy purple chile sauce and a creamy creation earlier than rolling all of it up and giving it to prospects. The meats are juicy, wealthy with smoky charcoal flavors, and balanced by the crunchy herbs and onions. The sauces tie the flavors along with equal elements richness and warmth. The entire bundle is an train in utter simplicity — one thing Los Angeles might use much more of. Sandwiches price $15 and include a alternative of soda or water.

For the primary yr, Danielyan operated the enterprise by himself, however ultimately introduced in a good friend, Karpis Bagdasaryan, to assist cook dinner. Danielyan hopes to open a brick-and-mortar restaurant sooner or later, however for now, he's content material to fireside up the grill each evening. “My prospects know that I’m open. I’ll proceed to cook dinner for them day-after-day. I did the identical in Ukraine, opening my restaurant for twenty-four hours for many who wished to eat,” he stated. “Everybody loves my meals. They preserve coming again after attempting it for the primary time.”

Kara Bala is open every day from 5 pm to 2 am at 6636 Foothill Boulevard, Tujunga, CA, 91042. Orders could be positioned over the cellphone by calling (318) 808-0008.

Armenian chicken skewers over charcoal.

Rooster on skewers.

Raw meat cooked on charcoal.

Numerous meats, together with rooster and beef.

A cook pours a red chile sauce on the chicken meat that was being wrapped in lavash bread.

Danielyan squeezes the purple chile sauce over the rooster.

Grilled chicken wrapped with chopped onions and parsley, held by one hand.

Grilled rooster Khorovats wrapped in lavash.

A man grilled meat skewers in the street.

Danielyan stokes the coals of the grill at Kara Bala in Tujunga.

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