LA's most fun Omakase Sonagi embraces its Japanese Korean duality

Sushi Sonagi represents a mission years within the making by one in every of Los Angeles' most gifted cooks, Daniel Son, who traveled the world to hone his expertise earlier than working behind the counter at his Japanese restaurant Kura Sushi. father in West Hollywood. Son serves Japanese comfort sandwiches at Katsu Sando in Chinatown, which later expanded to San Gabriel and the Westfield Topanga mall. Kura closed in 2019 as a consequence of a redevelopment of the property, giving Son time to consider his subsequent transfer with sushi. Though he initially deliberate to reopen Kura in West Hollywood, Son realized he needed to take his ambitions in a brand new route with a extra upscale omakase expertise that will mirror high-end sushi counters, however lean into the his Korean American background.

Sonagi deliberately opened Sonagi in July 2023 close to his hometown to ascertain one other noteworthy omakase vacation spot for the world. Inaba received the South Bay's first Michelin star a couple of years in the past, however in any other case, most of the sushi eating places within the space appear informal. Since opening, Sonagi has received an Eater Award for Greatest New Tasting Menu, a five-star overview and Time Out's Greatest New Restaurant, and was added to the California version of the Michelin Information this week, signaling doubtlessly larger recognition to come back. Eater sat down with Son to debate the primary six months of opening, how he's navigated a crowded omakase scene, and reply any questions.

To make sushi once more after a break of a few years

Daniel Son: It's extremely emotional. I had personal dinners throughout the pandemic, but it surely's not in the identical realm of getting an excellent beat and connecting. I felt actually good as a result of Kura was in an excellent place and a step to work on this mission. Return to the micro-seasonal fish, and don’t make sacrifices with high quality and product. Making sushi and seeing friends I haven't seen for a yr. It means a lot as a result of many come from LA to my hometown of Gardena.

On the key challenges of the primary months

I made tweaks right here and there like anybody does when opening a brand new restaurant. Nonetheless, the problem I confronted was coping with nervousness and the balancing act between the thread of two totally different cultures – whereas nonetheless being very LA. I needed to be as respectful and deal with issues with integrity. A number of issues are only a psychological battle. I really feel like I really feel higher about it. It's a celebration of my journey as a result of I haven't had a traditional culinary journey. Expressing myself is kind of essentially the most genuine, but additionally essentially the most difficult factor I may do.

As the stress between Japanese and Korean delicacies performs out within the menu

Dolsot is a transparent instance of a dish with nearly all of the basic flavors of a Japanese rice dish, however the dish itself is Korean. One other instance is the ganjang gejang gimbap. It took me the longest to tame all these flavors and mesh them effectively with the shari (sushi rice). It was a balancing act to omit the sesame oil and use the perilla oil. We had a dongchimi guksu with somen which was a tribute to Gil-Mok (the Nook Place restaurant in Koreatown). We used crab inventory and shredded Hokkaido hanasaki crab. I believe he hit it very well.

An Asian male chef holds two fish fillets on metal skewers. — Chef Daniel Son gives grilled fish fillets on skewers at his Gardena omakase restaurant Sonagi.

A small piece of Japanese Korean sushi on a plate. — Ganjang gejang gimbap with soy marinated crabs.

On the typically harsh criticism from sushi lovers

That is nothing new for me being a Korean American who has labored and skilled in Japanese delicacies. That you must work twice to get the identical recognition. However all my Japanese clientele and plenty of Japanese cooks embrace novelty, originality and creativity. It’s proof of what number of nice Japanese cooks skilled in different backgrounds and take dangers with out disregarding custom. However for the haters and their criticism, that's their proper. I can't management what grown women and men say my meals is like. I've been humbled that the reception has been typically way more optimistic than damaging. Some folks say you need to all the time do this, whereas others break the principles on goal, which I've finished as a lot as I can. In the event that they don't prefer it, they will go some place else.

In what he thinks for the remainder of Sonagi's first yr

We need to double our id – to be much less afraid, and extra daring. We need to leverage a stronger seasonal focus. I’ve nothing in opposition to bluefin tuna, however this yr I needed to problem myself and never serve it. I need to be inventive and spotlight fish that don't typically get the possibility to make it on omakase menus. I additionally need to lean in direction of being extra eclectic and open-minded about having enjoyable with otsumami, like Japanese mackerel sandwiches.

On Sonagi's profitability up to now

We’re worthwhile. I believe the primary yr, we tried to maintain the worth as little as attainable. This can be a ardour mission greater than something. Can we cost extra? Sure, however for me it's additionally a matter of not sacrificing high quality. We will enhance costs, however it is just decided by a number of the merchandise that dictate the worth change. I need to be good and conscious of the whole lot. That's the beauty of opening in Gardena. If we opened in Beverly Hills or West Hollywood, we wouldn't be a $200 omakase.

To work with the household

It looks like we’re internet hosting folks in our home. Our employees conferences are enjoyable and really free, and that provides to the environment and hospitality we attempt to present. My spouse Janet is now working right here part-time, however she finds Sonagi tremendous enjoyable. It has been such a pleasure and he loves it. He crushed her. He helped construct a bigger assortment of dishes, increasing his data of sake. My sister Annie was an excellent prepare dinner. I like educating her as a result of she has a pure capability to execute particulars. My mother and pop come to assist me put together. It was very satisfying for everybody.

This interview has been edited and condensed for readability.